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*                                                         *
*  Snipe Email Digest                                     *
*        From: Sun Feb 26 06:00:03 EST 1995               *
*        To:   Sun Mar 5 06:00:02 EST 1995               *
*                                                         *
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*  Questions and comments to snipe-request@ai.mit.edu     *
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From tmanning@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu  Mon Feb 27 09:01:31 1995
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Date: Mon, 27 Feb 1995 09:01:28 -0500 (EST)
From: Thomas Manning <tmanning@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu>
Subject: VELOCITY
To: snipe@ai.mit.edu
In-Reply-To: <Pine.3.89.9502200936.A17140-0100000@grits>
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When testing your boat, small adjustments are made to increase boat 
speed.  How do Snipe racers measure/test these small changes in speed - is 
it just your perception or is there a small meter available that allows 
you to measure boat speed and accurately judge different adjustments??  

Tom Manning
Valdosta, GA

P.S. The Valdosta YC had great weather/wind for its weekend regatta.  18 
     Snipes raced.  Boats from Tenn. Alabama, LA, FL, and GA 
     participated.  I'll post the place winners later in the week.

				(912)-333-7178 work
				(912)-333-7389 fax
				tmanning@valdosta.peachnet.edu


From sidwell@vuse.vanderbilt.edu  Mon Feb 27 09:34:36 1995
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From: sidwell@vuse.vanderbilt.edu (Vince Sidwell)
Message-Id: <9502271434.AA24654@nessus03.vuse>
To: snipe@ai.mit.edu
Subject: Proper Rigging


My father gave me his old Snipe last summer and it was never actually raced.  It is in very good condition, considering its age (23 years).  I'd like to know the proper way to rig a Snipe so that I can be somewhat competitive:

What is the traveller arrangement?

What about jib fairleads?

How does that mast-bending thing work?

How is the crew's hiking strap supposed to be rigged?

Are those extra lines supposed to be barberhaulers?
  (Lines come out of holes in the side decks between crew and skipper.)

What size (and type) of line is recommended for each use?

How can I get a picture (or diagram) of a properly rigged Snipe?


Here's a non-rigging question:

Is weather helm expected?  Maybe I have too much heel?  Suggestions?


Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Vince Sidwell
Mechanical Engineering
Vanderbilt University
sidwell@vuse.vanderbilt.edu

From CROWDER_TIMM@src.org  Mon Feb 27 10:12:14 1995
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From: CROWDER_TIMM@src.org
Subject: RE: Proper Rigging
To: snipe@ai.mit.edu
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        Vince,
        
        I'm posting to mailing list for everyone to see:
        
        I don't have answers to all your questions as some of them are 
        things I would like to know as well.  I hope to learn from others 
        who answer them.  However, I can tell you one thing that has 
        worked for me; take your boat to a regatta and look at everybody 
        else's boat.  I have yet to meet someone, at the local regatta 
        level, who wouldn't let me look at their boat, even measure things 
        and who wasn't willing to talk about how they liked or disliked 
        their rigging choices.  This is probably true at the upper levels 
        too, I just haven't been to any major regattas.  With this method 
        you don't make any innovative contributions to Snipe rigging but 
        you know if something is going to work before you start drilling.
        
        Cheers.
        
        Timm Crowder
        Snipe 24107
        crowder@src.org  



From apline@en.com  Mon Feb 27 10:37:17 1995
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To: snipe@ai.mit.edu
From: apline@en.com (Alex Pline)
Subject: Re: VELOCITY
X-Mailer: <PC Eudora Version 2.0.1>

>When testing your boat, small adjustments are made to increase boat 
>speed.  How do Snipe racers measure/test these small changes in speed - is 
>it just your perception or is there a small meter available that allows 
>you to measure boat speed and accurately judge different adjustments??  

Best way to do this is to sail next to some one else who is a "control
boat", i.e doesn't change anything. You then make small changes to and
compare the relative speed/pointing. Some caviats though: you need fairly
steady breeze and need to be able to sail for relatively long distances as
the differences in speed may be very subtle. Also, you should pick someone
who is "fast" as the control boat as the comparison is relative. Travelling
to regattas is an excellent opportunity to "tune" against others. Again,
this is very important so that you gain some perspective on your speed. In
many ways sailing against the same people can breed complacency (if you are
at the top).

There was an article in the Bulletin a while back (late 70's) that Mark
Reynolds wrote about boat speed tuning. I ran across it recently. I will dig
it our and post it under the "Articles about the Snipe" section on the Snipe
WWW Server (it may be a week or so as I'm going out of town on business). If
anyone wants a copy that doesn't have WWW access, let me know and I'll send
it to you.

Alex
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Alex Pline                               
Space Experiments Division     "Moderation in Moderation"
NASA Lewis Research Center
                              PHONE:
SNAIL MAIL:                    (216) 433-6614
 NASA Lewis Research Center    
 Mail Stop 500-102            INTERNET:
 21000 Brookpark Rd.           apline@en.com
 Cleveland, OH 44135           http://zeta.lerc.nasa.gov/stdce/pline.htm


From apline@en.com  Mon Feb 27 10:46:56 1995
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To: snipe@ai.mit.edu
From: apline@en.com (Alex Pline)
Subject: Re: Proper Rigging
X-Mailer: <PC Eudora Version 2.0.1>

Her are a few quick suggestions:

>How can I get a picture (or diagram) of a properly rigged Snipe?

Check out the article "From the Experts: Snipe," Sailing world, May 1993
(check the WWW server; it is posted there, minus the pictures; I can fax you
the pictures or the entire article if y0ou can't get it). The picturews are
of a very modern Jibe Tech, but it will give you an excellent overview of
how the modern boats are rigged, with explanations etc. It is a very
thourough article. It should give you some ideas.

>Here's a non-rigging question:
>
>Is weather helm expected?  Maybe I have too much heel?  Suggestions?

Probably, rig tuning can also affect weather heel, but if you are in the
ball park (near the number in your sailmaker's tuning guide for instance)
you are probably heeling too much. When going upwind, as a rule the windward
corner of your hull, where the chine meets the transom, should just be
"kissing" the water. Try this, when the boat is this flat the helm should
get a very neutral feel.

Alex
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Alex Pline                               
Space Experiments Division     "Moderation in Moderation"
NASA Lewis Research Center
                              PHONE:
SNAIL MAIL:                    (216) 433-6614
 NASA Lewis Research Center    
 Mail Stop 500-102            INTERNET:
 21000 Brookpark Rd.           apline@en.com
 Cleveland, OH 44135           http://zeta.lerc.nasa.gov/stdce/pline.htm


From 8_RFEWKES@fair1.fairfield.edu  Mon Feb 27 10:57:06 1995
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Date: Mon, 27 Feb 1995 10:56:52 -0500 (EST)
From: THE ONE AND ONLY ROB <8_RFEWKES@fair1.fairfield.edu>
Subject: Re: Rigging
To: snipe@ai.mit.edu
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Vince,  
	Most Snipe rigs are highly customized. Your rig might not concur to
anything we might describe.  I agree with Tim, the best way to figure things
out is to go to a local regatta.  Your boat is not to old to race.  When I
started in the snipe class in 1991, I was using a boat from the 50s.  Even now
my boat is much older than most, but with a little work, even a 20 year old
boat can be competitive on the local level. Good Luck,

			Robert W.F. Fewkes
         	 8_RFEWKES@Fair1.Fairfield. edu
	      Why Surf the Net, When You Could Sail It...
			   Snipe 17733


From apline@en.com  Mon Feb 27 12:02:43 1995
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To: snipe@ai.mit.edu
From: apline@en.com (Alex Pline)
Subject: RE: Proper Rigging
X-Mailer: <PC Eudora Version 2.0.1>

I second Timm's comments!

>        Vince,
>        
>        I'm posting to mailing list for everyone to see:
>        
>        I don't have answers to all your questions as some of them are 
>        things I would like to know as well.  I hope to learn from others 
>        who answer them.  However, I can tell you one thing that has 
>        worked for me; take your boat to a regatta and look at everybody 
>        else's boat.  I have yet to meet someone, at the local regatta 
>        level, who wouldn't let me look at their boat, even measure things 
>        and who wasn't willing to talk about how they liked or disliked 
>        their rigging choices.  This is probably true at the upper levels 
>        too, I just haven't been to any major regattas.

This is definitely true!!! This is one of the things that makes the Sniep
great and Unique! I have never seen **anyone** not let others look at
his/her boat.


>        With this method 
>        you don't make any innovative contributions to Snipe rigging but 
>        you know if something is going to work before you start drilling.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Alex Pline                               
Space Experiments Division     "Moderation in Moderation"
NASA Lewis Research Center
                              PHONE:
SNAIL MAIL:                    (216) 433-6614
 NASA Lewis Research Center    
 Mail Stop 500-102            INTERNET:
 21000 Brookpark Rd.           apline@en.com
 Cleveland, OH 44135           http://zeta.lerc.nasa.gov/stdce/pline.htm


From skeckler@ai.mit.edu  Mon Feb 27 12:05:50 1995
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From: skeckler@ai.mit.edu (Steve Keckler)
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To: sidwell@vuse.vanderbilt.edu
Cc: snipe@ai.mit.edu
In-Reply-To: Vince Sidwell's message of Mon, 27 Feb 95 08:34:33 CST <9502271434.AA24654@nessus03.vuse>
Subject: Proper Rigging


Vince Sidwell writes:
> My father gave me his old Snipe last summer and it was never actually
> raced.  It is in very good condition, considering its age (23 years).
> I'd like to know the proper way to rig a Snipe so that I can be
> somewhat competitive:

One of the biggest hindrances of a boat that old is that your mast may
not be a modern "bendy" one.  Modern masts (such as modern Cobra II,
Sidewinder, Proctor, and Bryant spars) are very bendy, providing more
control in a variety of conditions.  With an older mast (such as the
Cobra I telephone poles) it may be harder to power up and depower, and
nearly impossible to compare to other boats setup.

Anyone else care to comment?

Steve.

Steve Keckler                    Concurrent VLSI Architecture Group
545 Technology Square		 MIT Artificial Intelligence Laboratory
Room 619A			 Tel:     (617) 253-8473
Cambridge, MA 02139 USA		 Fax:	  (617) 253-5060
				 E-mail:  skeckler@ai.mit.edu

PS. I've included the text below of Ed Adams article "From the
Experts: Snipe" from May 1993, Sailing World.  This is reprinted with
permission from SW and may also be found on the Snipe WWW server.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

<TITLE>From the Experts: Snipe</TITLE>

<H1>From the Experts: Snipe</H1><BR>

<H2>by Ed Adams, illustrations by Henry Hill</H2><BR>

<H5>Originally published in <I>Sailing World</I>, May 1993, reprinted
with permission</H5>

<P> 
If you could timewarp a Snipe sailor from 1977 to a present- day
regatta it would seem only vaguely familiar to him. Most of the faces
would be new to him, 20- to 30-ish in age, largely co- ed, and
belonging to sailors who had sharpened their skills on the
intercollegiate circuit. The racing would be tougher and tighter, with
slightly smaller fleets than he remembered, but still absent of any
cut-throat mentality.


<P> 
As this time-traveler strolled around the parking lot he would see
the easy sociability and the commitment to fun that has always been
the hallmark of the Snipe Class. Chances are, the first boat he
wandered by would look like the Snipe he had left behind. But as he
perused the parking lot he would come across a number of new boats
that would give him future shock-Snipes that, to him, would look
straight out of a science fiction magazine.


<P> 
In the 10 years since the "From the Experts" on the Snipe appeared
in this magazine, there has been an injection of new blood and boats
into the class. These newcomers have raised the already high level of
competition to new standards; but the class has managed the evolution
while preserving the competitiveness of the older boats.


<P> 
Today the Snipe stands as the world's premier tactical two- person
dingy. It has a rig as sophisticated as any Olympic class, yet without
trapeze or spinnaker it can be handled by a novice. It has become the
choice of the post-graduate collegiate sailor, the only forum he or
she can find that emphasizes tactics and where a speed advantage is
measured in inches, not boat lengths.


<P> 
The Snipe is a young person's boat; or let's say a young couples
boat. The harder you hike, the faster you go, and with the advent of
the fitness craze and the refinement of the bendy rig, most teams in
the U.S. are now co-ed, and the ideal weight has slowly dropped to
about 295 pounds. Because the boat is heavy, with an all up weight of
380 pounds, the range of competitive combined crew weights is wide-
270-320 pounds. The distribution of weight between skipper and crew
does not seem to matter. All that matters is that both skipper and
crew can hike equally hard.


<P> <B>EVOLUTION OF BOAT DESIGN</B> <BR> 
The shape of a Snipe hull and
the distribution of weight is tightly controlled, so it is really hard
to gain a speed advantage through hull design. Rig tuning and athletic
ability are the speed factors in this class.


<P> 
When fiberglass arrived in 1967 so did a new boat for the Snipe
Class called the Chubasco. The Chubasco eventually became the
McLaughlin Snipe and, with only minor changes to improve core
materials and the hull liner,has dominated the Snipe Class for 20
years.


<P> 
In the early 1980's other builders like Mueller, Phoenix, and
Skipper began to offer more "roll" to the side decks for added
comfort. Cockpit plans were open, and floor heights were raised to
increase flotation.


<P> 
It wasn't until the late 1980s that the truly radical departures
began. Leading he way was the Brazilian Thor Snipe, which had a very
small cockpit-only a fraction of the size of the previous designs, but
much deeper. The added depth meant that you stood "in" instead of "on"
the boat when tacking or jibing. This improved footing and balance.
Flotation lost in the lowered floor was recovered in the larger bow
and stern tanks.


<P> 
The 1990s have brought refinements on the breakthrough Thor Snipe.
In the U.S. the most radical boat is the Jibe Tech,in Europe it is the
Danish-built Persson. the Jibe Tech (see illustration) uses the same
deep floor, small cockpit layout as the Thor, but the side decks are
open underneath for cleaner rigging. The angle of the deck is designed
so that it supports the crew's calves without cutting off circulation.


<P> 
The rail under the crew is higher and squarer, to lift and protect
the sailors farther outboard. Because you are sitting higher, you
don't have to straight-leg hike to keep from dragging in the water.
Hiking pants are de rigueur.


<P> 
While the new boats offer ergonomic improvements, it should be
emphasized that, when speed sailing in a straight line, all Snipes are
basically created equal. Because of this, a used Snipe is an excellent
way to get into the class. There were nearly 1000 boats built by
Chubasco and McLaughlin during the two decades they dominated the
class, and many of these boats can be purchased in the $2000-$3500
range - roughly half the cost of a new boat.


<P> 
Before purchasing any used boat there are a couple of things to
check. First, weigh the boat. It may have corrector weights,that can
be removed to make it minimum weight. Many McLaughlins have
plywood-cored cockpit floors, which can become saturated with water.


<P> 
Second, study the mast. the Cobra II or Proctor Miracle are the
most popular masts. Make sure the mast is straight and has no cracks
at the deck or gooseneck, and then weigh it - a fully rigged mast that
weighs more than the 20 pound minimum is likely to be too stiff.
Finally, expect to spend about $250 on a new rudder and some
rerigging. With smart shopping, you can still put together a used boat
a bargain price.


<P> <B>BOAT PREPARATION</B><BR> 
<B>Hull:</B> I recommend taking your
boat to a professional to have it faired every four years of so. After
that just use soap and water to keep it clean. Fiberglass boats shrink
as they age, and a fairing job is the only way to maintain the hull in
top form.


<P> 
The Snipe Class has a moment-of-inertia test to control the weight
in the ends of the boat. The builders install corrector weights under
the fore- and afterdecks, because that's the quickest way to meet the
"swing" test. However, I prefer to concentrate the correctors in the
one spot on the underside of the deck aft of the skipper.This will
allow you to slide the boat forward on the jig, until it just passes
the test. The daggerboard should be chocked so it is all the way aft
in it's trunk and the mast step placed at maximum forward, which helps
balance the sailplan with the boom horizontal.


<P> 
<B>Blades:</B> Until Jibe Tech introduced its production rudder,
most of the top sailors had custom-made rudders. The production
rudders of the 1980s were flexible, and the wrong shape. Minimum
rudder weight is 6 pounds, and a good rudder will not only be close to
minimum, but also have the weight concentrated on the leading edge of
the rudder head. This gives the rudder less inertia as it turns and
hence, a lighter feel. Sea Sure rudder fittings, which fit stainless
pintles into aluminum gudgeons, give you a better sensitivity than the
standard stainless-on- stainless fittings.


<P> 
The daggerboards are fairly straight forward. The trend in
leading-edge shape of these flat, aluminum plates has gone from almost
blunt, to radically sharp to finally settling on a compromise of a
small, round parabolic tip that gradually tapers into the board.


<P> 
The trailing edge will hum if its taper is too abrupt. It is
important to use the full 1" width of the allowed taper to fair in the
edges gradually. The bottom of the board should be tapered as well, to
a chisel point.


<P> 
If you sail with a crew under 140 pounds, I recommend that you cut
out the head of the board to make it easier to lift downwind.

<P> Check your board with a straight edge to make sure it's absolutely
flat. Aluminum plate is rolled, so it has a slight curve. You can
straighten the board by placing it across two supports and jumping on
it.

<P> 
<B>Masts:</B> Getting the rig right is the most important thing
you can do for speed in a Snipe. The first step is to find a good
mast. The class standard is the Cobra II, although there are close
copies made in Europe, South America, and Japan. The Proctor Miracle
has a different shape, but similar bend. Only the U.S. made Bryant
spar takes a different approach with a stiffer section. You must
realize that no two masts are alike, even from the same mast
manufacturer; and as a general rule, bendier masts are better than
stiff ones.


<P> 
Bendy masts are good for two reasons. First, The Snipe is very
sensitive to mainsheet tension. A bendy mast gives the mainsheet a lot
of what I call "travel," or range of adjustment, which makes trimming
less critical in medium air. It also makes it easier to prebend in
light air.


<P> 
The second reason has to do with how the Snipe Class measures
masts. You can trick the moment of inertial test by bringing an
underweight mast up to weight with an internal sleeve or web at
spreader height.Hence most of the fast masts are underweight with
internal correctors.


<P> 
If your mast is too stiff, don't abandon it. First, look up the
sail track and see if the taper at the tip deflects the sail track
forward. If it does, bend it straight.


<P> 
Second, cut the butt of the mast so the aft edge is 3/16" longer
than the front edge. This compresses the back of the mst and forces it
to bend forward.


<P> 
Third, raise your shrouds to maximum height on the mast. This
separates them from the headstay and also forces more bend into the
spar. Fourth, make sure that your main halyard locks exactly at the
maximum height. The higher the mainsail the more leverage the leech
has to bend the mast.


<P> 
Finally, cut out the external sail-track web that reinforces the
mast below the gooseneck. This allows the mast to bend down low, and
will give you the mainsheet "travel" needed for medium- air speed.


<P> 
<B>Spreader Angle and Length:</B> this is a critical adjustment
for the Snipe. It's different for every mast, boat, and crew weight.
Finding your "magic" setting often requires a bit of experimentation.


<P> 
To determine the proper length and angle, first you need to
consider where your shrouds are positioned on the deck. This is
different for every builder. The trend over the past 15 years has been
to move the shroud as far forward and outboard as is legally allowed.


<P> 
The Snipes of yesteryear had the shrouds anchored well behind the
maximum forward positioned allowed by the rules. These Snipes were
sailed with very loose rigs. Now we sail with our rigs much
tighter-tight enough to induce prebend in the mast, so the shrouds
must be max forward to be able to let the boom out when running. the
more forward your chain plates, the more spreader angle you need; and
the more outboard, the more spreader length.


<P> 
Also consider both the type of mast and the weight of the crew.
Bendier masts must be "powered up" with longer, less-swept spreaders.
Stiffer masts are depowered by shorter spreaders with more aft sweep.
Remember, masts from the same manufacturer can vary up to 7 percent in
weight, so don't copy your neighbors just because he has the same
model as you. The heavier, or more athletic the crew, the more power
you tune into the rig with spreader length and angle.


<P> 
The average-weight crew, sighting up the sail track when sailing
upwind in moderate conditions, wants to see a mast that is straight
sideways. A lightweight crew would be looking for about 1/4" of bend
to weather at the spreaders; a heavyweight crew wants about 1/4" to
leeward. This 1/2" range in side bend translates into a 1/2"
difference in spreader lengths. Length is measured from the shroud
through the spreader bracket pin to the mast.


<P> 
To determine the correct amount of spreader angle, or sweep, take
a look at how the mainsail sets in heavy air with the vang on hard. In
these conditions you will get "overbend wrinkles" from excessive mast
bend. these wrinkles run from the clew to the lower half of the mast.
y pulling on the mast aft lever, you should be able to remove all of
these wrinkles. If you still have overbend wrinkles in the spreader
area, you need to increase the spreader angle.


<P> <B>LAYOUT</B><BR> 
A good deck layout emphasizes two things: ease
of adjustability from a fully hiked position, and ease of maneuvers
for tactical advantage.


<P> 

<B>Hiking Straps:</B> The skipper and crew must have individual
straps on each side of the boat for sailing upwind. the straps must
overlap so the sailors can sit close together to reduce windage and
pitching.

<P> 
The skipper and crew should be able to relax the instep of their
ankles when fully hiked. To do this the straps must be of coarse
webbing (not padded) that grabs the hiking boot. The aft end of the
crew strap, and the forward end of the skipper strap, must be anchored
far enough outboard so the pull on the ankle is down, not inboard.


<P> 
The aft ends of the skipper's strap should be sewn together and
tied to a rope anchored on centerline. the goal is to be able to
easily step across the boat when tacking, aft foot first, and have the
heel of that foot automatically lock under the new strap. The you can
leap across the boat and come out hiking on the one leg without ever
sitting on the deck.


<P> 
When reaching in planing conditions, the crew moves aft to the
skipper's straps, and the skipper moves aft to the single, short
reaching strap that is just tight enough so he or she can't be "fire
hosed" out of the boat.


<P> 
When running in surfing or planning conditions it is essential
that the skipper have sailboard-style footstraps mounted on the floor
in front of the reaching strap. Then he can lock his feet to the
floor, and slide in and out to help balance the boat without tugging
on the tiller of mainsheet.


<P> 
<B>Jib sheeting:</B> The main choice in jib sheeting is whether to
have the crew face forward or aft during at tack. Most boats are
rigged for facing aft, with simple cleats mounted on cars that are
pinned to adjustable tracks. The only advantage to facing aft is it
gives you better balance when tacking in big seas, because you don't
have to duck under the vang.


<P> 
Facing forward during a tack is the choice of a majority of the
top boats because it is much smoother in light air, when the crew is
sitting in the boat and looking forward. It also eliminates the cleat
and car from under the legs.


<P> 
Some of the top crews trim the jib straight from ratchet block,
but this is not practical for a crew under 130 pounds because the pull
is too hard. Even with a ratchet, you still need some sort of cleat,
accessible to both skipper and crew, for cleating the pole downwind.


<P> 
A new trimming system that has become popular is to use a twing on
the jib sheet to adjust the for-and-aft lead upwind. This twing is led
to the crew on the weather side. The twing deflects the sheet down and
slightly inboard.


<P> 
<B>Pole Launcher:</B> The Snipe Pole launcher is an ingenious
recent invention from South America. By simply pulling on a line, the
jib clew is pulled to the pole end, and the inboard end of the 8 1/2
foot pole is launched to the mast.


<P> 
The pole launcher shortens the time spent launching, retrieving,
and storing the pole. It is especially great on marginal reaches when
your want to set for a short while. However, it is not without its
drawbacks. First, it adds two pounds to the boom. Using a lighter
weight pole is only asking for trouble - it will catch on the forestay
during a jibe and break.


<P> 
Second, the pole launcher makes an effective roll jibe nearly
impossible. With the traditional no-launched system, the pole is
pre-jibed, cleated, then the boat is rolled. With this method, both
sails are fanned as he boat is rocked down after the jibe. With the
pole launcher, the pole must first be retracted, then the boat is
jibed. Only after the jibe is complete is the jib reset.


<P> 
I rigged my pole launcher so that the skipper can retract and
reset the pole on a reverse purchase. In light air I can reset the
pole in the split second before the "rock down" of the jibe, so both
sails are fanned. the problem here is that the skipper has his hands
full in a heavy-air jibe.


<P> 
When all the pros and cons are weighed, the launcher vs.
non-launcher choice is a draw. For many sailors the choice comes down
to which type of boat they own. If they have a newer design with a
sealed stern tank, the pole must be stored and launched from the boom.
Only with the traditional open cockpit design can the pole be stored
under the deck.


<P> 
<B>Control Lines:</B> I lead the jib and main cunninghams, as well
as the jib leads, to the crew on the deck. In the deck recess between
the skipper and crew is the mast-aft control and traveler. This recess
is useless on most of the older designs, because it s molded so far
forward that the crew must sit on it in heavy air.


<P> 
The jib halyard exits from the daggerboard trunk, and is angled
for easy cleating from the rail. It needs to have at least 12" or more
of throw, so the jib can be flown out and away from the boat on a run.
Most sailors use a 15" Harken magic box, but I use a 6:1 cascade
inside the trunk that works about as well with less tail to pull.


<P> 
The split-mainsheet system is the class standard. A rope bridle is
sewn to the after end of the mainsheet, which is then "sucked" inside
the boom when the mainsheet is trimmed hard. No matter how hard you
trim, the boom will remain centered until the bridle is "let down" with
the traveler adjustment.


<P> 
In practice, this system is only an advantage in light air and
flat water, and its 1:1 purchase is unmanageable for any skipper under
140 pounds in a strong breeze. For smaller skippers or consistent
heavy-air conditions, a 2:1 mainsheet makes more sense.


<P> <B>TUNING</B> <BR> 
The mast partners should have about an 1/8" of
play on each side of the mast. This makes it easy to center the mast,
and allows it to stay in column as the rig stretches upwind.


<P> 
Hoist the jib in the parking lot until the mast rake, as measured
from the mast tip to the center of the afterdeck at the transom, is
21' 3 1/2". At this rake setting, there should be enough tension on
the shrouds to produce 1" to 1 1/2' of prebend. the mast should be
centered in the partners, and centered from rail to rail.


<P> 
Simply adjust the shrouds to produce the desired prebend and the
desired rake. Tighter shrouds increase prebend; looser shrouds reduce
it.


<P> 
As a final check, measure the tension with a Loos Gauge. If you
have shrouds of the standard issue 3/32" 1x19" wire, the tension
should read 150 to 185 pounds. With the rod or dyform 3/32" wire used
on the top boats, the gauge will read about 80 pounds higher due to
the greater stiffness of the wire. If the tension is too high, work on
the mast to make it bendier.


<P> 
After you have the mast tuned at the standard rake, put a mark on
each side of the mast with corresponding marks on the partner. This is
your "neutral" mast ram position.


<P> 
Next mark your jib halyard at the standard rake, and at 1" less
rake and 1" more. The standard rake is for all-purpose, medium-air
conditions. In light air and slop the jib halyard is eased to
straighten the mast. In a breeze the halyard is tightened to firm up
the rig.


<P> 
Most of the top sailors also tighten their shrouds in heavy air.
On my boat I have multiple chainplate attachments; as the breeze
builds, I move the shroud attachments outboard and aft, without
touching the turnbuckles. This makes the rig tighter without causing
the spreader to poke the mast to leeward. I do the converse before the
start of a light-air race. Class rules prohibit adjustment of shrouds
while racing.


<P> 
The mast lever is a critical adjustment. In light air and flat
water it is used to add prebend. In choppy conditions or when vang
sheeting, the ram is used to restrict bend. In heavy air upwind, the
proportion of vang tension to ram aft is varied with sea conditions.
For example, in rough seas, 1/4" of added aft ram at deck level, with
a corresponding ease of the vang, will give the mainsheet more power
and twist for better speed.

<P>
<PRE>
================================================================================

                                 Tuning Guide

-------------------------------Wind Strength (knots)----------------------------
                     0-5             6-12            13-18           19+
------------------------------------Upwind--------------------------------------
Jib Halyard          
 choppy water        21' 2 1/2"      21' 3 1/2"      21' 4 1/2"      21' 5 1/2"
 flat water          21' 3 1/2"

Mast Ram
 choppy water        not set         1/4" aft        1/4" aft        neutral
 flat water          1/2" forward    not set         neutral         1/4" forward

------------------------------------Jib Reach------------------------------------

Jib Halyard          21' 2 1/2"      21' 2 1/2"      21' 3 1/2"      21' 5 1/2"
Mast Ram             1/4" aft        1/2" aft        neutral         1/2" forward

------------------------------------Pole Reach-----------------------------------

Jib Halyard          half eased   -.---.---.---.---.---.---.---.---.---.---.---.-
Mast Ram             1/2" aft        neutral         1/2" forward    1" forward

---------------------------------------Run---------------------------------------

Jib Halyard          fully eased  -.---.---.---.---.---.---.---.---.---.---.---.-
Mast Ram             max aft         1/2" aft        neutral         1/2" forward

---------------------------Jib Lead and Sheet Tension----------------------------

Jib Lead 
 Choppy Water        7' 1" 
 Flat Water          7' 3"           7' 2"           7' 3"           7' 3"

Trim on Splashrail
Mark
 Choppy Water        2" outside      1" outside      1" outside      2" outside
 Flat Water          1/2" outside    at mark         at mark         1"outside

=================================================================================
SPREADER LENGTH

Limber Mast     17 1/2"
Stiff Mast      16 3/4"

Measured from shroud through pin in bracket to mast. For boats with
chain plates positioned at the maximum outboard location sailed by an
average-weight crew. If chain plates are mounted inboard, spreader
length should be reduced accordingly.  Heavy crews should add 1/4" in
spreader length, light crews should subtract 1/4".

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
SPREADER ANGLE

Limber Mast     30"
Stiff Mast      28"

Measured from spreader tip to spreader tip. For boas with chain plates
at the maximum forward position sailed by an average-weight crew.
Reduce accordingly for boats with aft chain plates.

=================================================================================

</PRE>

<B>SAIL TRIM UPWIND</B>
<BR>

<B>Mainsheet:</B> A good starting point for medium air is to trim the main until the upper batten is parallel to the boom. Trimming one or two "clicks" harder on your mainsheet is good for occasional pinching, and a similar ease on the sheet will allow you to foot.

<P> 
In very light winds, the top batten will hook to weather due to
the large roach of the sail. Adding 1/2" of forward mast lever will
help alleviate this. In heavy air the upper batten will naturally
angle out 10 degrees from parallel.


<P> 
<B>Traveler:</B> the traveler is an important control in medium
air - reach for it fisrt to depower when the wind builds from 10 to 15
knots. With the traveler down you can still sheet the main fairly hard
to maintain mast bend and headstay tension. the traveler is dropped
three to four inches before it's time to rely on the vang to bend the
mast.


<P> 
In light air and flat water the traveler is centered. In chop,
however, you can develop better footing power by dropping the traveler
1" and sheeting one "click" harder on the mainsheet.


<P> 
<B>Boomvang:</B> In winds of 0 to 14 knots, setting the vang is
simple. Just pull the mainsheet until the upper batten is parallel,
then ease it out two "clicks" and take the slack out of the vang. That
way, the vang will only have tension on it when the mains is eased for
footing, and the essential "travel" of the mainsheet is not
restricted.


<P> 
By the time the wind is 15 knots, it is usually puffy and choppy.
In these conditions you have to be able to play the main in and out in
large amounts. To do this you need to "lock in" the mast bend with
boomvang tension; otherwise the mast straightens and the main gets too
full as you dump the mainsheet. You also have to "lock in" headstay
sag; or the jib will balloon out to leeward and cause lee helm
whenever you ease the mainsheet. This is done with the aft lever.


<P> 
When the wind is in he 15- to 20-knot range, the primary power
control is the boomvang. Maximum vang for fully overpowered conditions
is almost, but not quite, enough to cause the mainsail to turn "inside
out" form overbend wrinkles.


<P> 
<B>Jib Lead and Sheet Tension:</B> The Snipe goes best when the
jib lead seems unnaturally far forward and the sheet seem overeased.
The standard jib-lead position for most jibs is about 7' 2" aft of the
headstay, measured in a straight line.


<P> 
Most sailmakers use a soft, lightweight 3.3-ounce, warp- oriented
cloth for their jibs. This material is very stretchy on the leech, and
naturally "opens up" to add twist as the breeze builds. The leads need
to be moved only about 1" from the standard lead for different
conditions. Because this cloth is so stretchy on the fill, it's quite
sensitive to jib cunningham tension.


<P> 
Now that many of the new boats have the ability to adjust the jib
lead from the weather rail, sailmakers have some success experimenting
with firmer cloth, especially in heavy air. A firmer jib is less
sensitive to the jib cunningham, but lead adjustment is more critical.


<P> 
Sheet tension is far more important than lead position. Snipe
sailors measure tension by marking the foot of the jib where the
vertical plane of the sail lands on the splash rail or the deck the
maximum tension mark is made 16" off the centerline on each side of
the mast, with the mast set in its "neutral position." Only in medium
air and flat water is the jib trimmed this hard. In choppy conditions
it is eased 1" or 2" outside this mark. Maximum ease is fast when it's
light and sloppy.

<P>
<B>SAILING A SNIPE</B>
<BR>

The Snipe is the most fun in a shifty breeze, because it can be tacked
almost at will, with only a half boatlength (or less) of distance
lost. Remember that it is a dinghy - speed is just a as dependent on
weight movement and body control as it is on rig tuning.


<P> 
While the number of control lines might seem over whelming to
some, the transition to Snipe sailing is easiest for sailors
graduating from the collegiate circuit or from a singlehanded class
like the Laser or Europe. That's because these sailors focus on
tactics and boathandling.


<P> 
<B>Upwind:</B> when sailing upwind in light to medium air, the rig
is in its "flexible" mode. You trim the mainsheet, the mast bends, and
both sails get flatter. You ease the mainsheet and the reverse
happens. Mast bend is induced in a drifter with the forward lever and
restricted in a breeze with the aft lever. When the wind gets strong,
you switch to the "lock in," vang-sheeting mode common to most other
dinghies. Here the mast bend and headstay sag are constant and you
work the main in and out on the boom vang. A majority of speed
problems are caused by over trimming the jib. If you feel slow, just
ease the jib and foot.


<P> 
In light air, try to center the weight as deep in the boat as
possible. In a hiking breeze do everything you can to get more
leverage. Remember, you will always go faster if you hike harder.


<P> 
In waves, use all the kinetics the rules allow. Unweight before a
wave and hike hard on the crest. the goal is to keep the boat
absolutely flat without rolling from side to side slide aft before
hitting a big wave, and slide forward as you come into the boat in a
dying breeze.


<P> 
<B>Reaching:</B> Despite its weight, the Snipe planes easily.
Because the hull has a lot of rocker, it is very sensitive to
fore-and-aft weight positioning. On a planing reach, the skipper
slides aft and lock his feet into the reaching strap while the crew
has the whole cockpit and must use it to full advantage. The goal is
to keep the boat absolutely level, both side to side and on its
fore-and-aft lines. When the stern lifts as a wave or puff hits, the
crew slides aft and hikes on the skipper's upwind straps to keep the
bow from digging in. The bow lifts as soon as the boat is planing, so
the crew slides in and forward to the front of the cockpit to keep the
boat on its lines. This for-and- aft movement is not ooching if you
don't stop abruptly, push, or grab the deck.


<P> 
The mainsheet should be trimmed from the ratchet when planing; in
other conditions it can be trimmed straight from the boom. The
daggerboard is always raised to full legal height off the wind, except
in displacement jib reaching, when it's set three inches lower.


<P> 
The use of aft-mast ram is critical to offwind speed. he farther
aft you pull the mast, the straighter and more powerful the mainsail,
and the less he spreaders will obstruct the sail's shape. If you pull
too hard, however, the mast will reverse and take a permanent bend. In
heavy air, always have the mast set at, or forward of the neutral
position, especially when reaching with the pole up.


<P> 
The jib halyard is eased slightly when jib reaching, except in
heavy air. When pole reaching the halyard is eased about half of it
full throw. A reaching hook for the weather sheet helps keep the pole
from skying on a reach.


<P> 
Most sailors know enough to trim the pole back as he wind goes
aft, but you also have to either ease the halyard or retract the pole
launcher a few inches, or the jib will be sketched tight and won't fly
properly. The reverse is true as you let the pole forward; either
launch the pole or tighten the halyard.


<P> 
<B>Running:</B> In light air, a Snipe sails like a spinnaker boat.
The pole is long, the jib is light and flies well away from the boat
and to keep the jib flying you have to sail fairly tight jibing
angles. Tactically it's just as challenging as sailing with a
spinnaker.


<P> 
As you enter a lull, heel the boat onto its leeward chine, let the
pole forward, and tighten the jib halyard. In a puff, shift your
weight so the boat rolls onto its weather chine. This gives you the
lee helm necessary to care the boat down in the puff. The pole should
come back as the halyard is eased.


<P> 
In moderate to heavy air, the boat is sailed level for better
control. Here, working "deep" is not as important as shifting your
weight to best ride the waves. Heeling to weather, pulling the mast
back and easing the vang does allow you to sail deeper, but invites a
capsize or mast reversal.


<P> 
The Snipe Class has a lot to offer. It has an established circuit
of regattas with both top competition and a tradition of after-race
socials. It is the only non-Olympic doublehanded class with a true
international following. It has a challenging rig that will teach you
more about sail trim than any of the more restrictive one-design
classes.


<P> 
If you want to sit on the rail with little to do, or simply rip
across the course and tack on the layline, this is not the class for
you. But if you have a good set of legs, the ability to think quickly,
and like to mix it up both on the water and off, you should give the
Snipe a try.

<P>

<P> 

<I>In his 10 years in the Snipe class, Ed Adams has won the North American
championship four times and the national championship twice.  He's also an
accomplished Star sailor, and won the world championship in that class in
1987. For more information, contact the <A HREF="../scira.html">Snipe Class
International Racing Association</A>.</I>




From CMJH@chevron.com  Mon Feb 27 20:38:05 1995
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Message-Id: <CPLAN012.CMJH.3739.1995 0227 17 35 17 35>
Date: 27 Feb 95 17:37:23 PST
From: "Callahan, J.M. (" <CMJH@chevron.com>
Subject: RE: Trailers/dollies
To: snipe@ai.mit.edu
Comment: CPLAN012 CMJH     02-27-95 18:37:00 SSW1


From: Callahan, J.M. (John)    -CMJH
To:  OPEN ADDRESSING SERVI-OPENADDR
Subject:  RE: Trailers/dollies
Date: 1995-02-27 17:33
Priority:

------------------------------------------------------------------------------


I use a Seitech for a Finn (all up weight 300-350 lbs depending on how much
water i have in it). The dolly operates just fine.

Seitech advertises a dolly for all kinds of dinghies. Give them a call and
see if they have a beefier model for a Snipe.

I use the Seitech for the Finn and a Laser. They are, in my humble
estimation, the best dolly available. Lightweight, strong and you can tear
them down to their principle parts in short order if you want to throw it in
the back of the car.

JC
California
 ----------
From: GELDRIDG
To: CMJH
Subject: Trailers/dollies
Date: Friday, February 24, 1995 6:54PM

To: snipe@ai.mit.edu

Subject: Trailers/dollies
Does anyone have recommendations for a light durable dolly that
can handle a snipe's weight and endure a windy, salt spray laden
existence? It would also be desirable if it was shipped in a small
box and not too expensive!!!

I see a reference to Seitech dollies on the WWW page. Some of the
local laser sailors use them but they look a little light for the
rather more matronly snipe :). Anybody have any practical experience?

Thanks

Guy Eldridge
Bermuda



From Plines@aol.com  Mon Feb 27 20:42:46 1995
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Date: Mon, 27 Feb 1995 20:42:46 -0500
From: Plines@aol.com
Message-Id: <950227204242_34258551@aol.com>
To: snipe@ai.mit.edu
Subject: World Snipe Day

Hot off the press...The next Snipe Bulletin will announce that May 6th will
be proclaimed World Snipe Day.  It was determined that the first Saturday in
May would be a day that all Snipers, regardless of which side of the equator
or in what latitude they reside, could take their Snipes out en masse in a
show of support for the class.  The Commodore has issued a challenge that all
Snipers go sailing on World Snipe and take someone out who is new to the
Class.  The official proclamation is stated below.  Start thinking about how
you will support World Snipe Day!

See you on the water!

Lisa Foulke Pline
SCIRA Board Member
International and US Marketing Committees

--------------------

World Snipe Day Proclamation
May 6th, 1995

As forwarded by SCIRA Commodore Jimmie Lowe, and supported by the SCIRA Board
of Directors, the first Saturday of May in 1995 shall be proclaimed World
Snipe Day.  On this day, May 6th, each and every Snipe sailor around the
world is urged to set sail in a show of support for one of the truly
world-class racing dinghies.  All Snipers in the 216 fleets that span the
planet representing 26 countries will join forces on this day to demonstrate
their joy of the sport as well as to raise the profile of the Snipe Class
International Racing Association.
_____________

Commodore's Challenge

The Commodore challenges every fleet to get 100% participation from their
fleet and to take someone sailing on World Snipe Day who is not currently
associated with the Class.  World Snipe Day events should be recorded and
forwarded to the Commodore, care of the SCIRA office.  Innovative ideas will
be showcased at the Worlds in Italy, and published in the Snipe Bulletin.
 Fleets with above 90% participation (based on the number of boats
participating vs. the number of boats registered) will honored as a SCIRA
"Gold Fleet" member.

Host an event at the fleet level and invite new and/or prospective members.
Suggested events are:
-	Fun short course event, "collegiate-style"
-	Fun team race event or match race event, challenging other class champions
against the local Snipe fleet champions.  Or challenge the local junior or
collegiate sailing program!
-	Long Distance Race with a picnic at the race's destination
-	Fun "Gimmick" event, such as treasure hunts, backwards races, etc
-	"Open House" event open to the public
-	Host a sailing workshop, where the local champions give chalk-talks and on
the water tips on how to go fast around the course.
-	Have an "apres-sailing event" such as a pot-luck dinner, sailing videos,
etc.



From svaldi@itc.it  Tue Feb 28 03:00:21 1995
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Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 09:03:16 +0100
To: snipe@ai.mit.edu
From: svaldi@itc.it (Svaldi Romano)

Charlie has explained very carefully the problems concerning the
differences in tuning the boats.
From my little sailing experience I can say that changing mast rake or
shrouds tension is not really critical in the snipe like in other lighter
and planing boats, such as 470 or FD. In fact in the world we can see many
different tunings: some tighten the shrouds, some tighten the halyard, some
others do both, some do nothing, with similar speed results. In the snipe
the real difference is in handling the boat. Most of sail makers tuning
guides explain how to set up the boat correctly, but you need to train hard
to reach the best performance of the boat.
Maybe South Americans spend more time sailing in hard conditions than other
people do, but you must also consider that sailing in Rio de la Plata (or
Rio Guaiba, where last Worlds has been sailed) is much more difficult than
in any other place: if you have little or no confidence with the waves you
are dead.
However, one point must be focused: I do not believe that South Americans
are faster upwind; they are much better than everyone downwind and
reaching. And you don't need particular tuning for that.

Antonio Bari
Snipe News editor (italian snipe bullettin)
fax +39-461-236-781
E-mail svaldi@itc.it.


From WASKOW@ariel.princeton.edu  Tue Feb 28 10:11:21 1995
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From: "Darryl Waskow" <WASKOW@ariel.princeton.edu>
To: snipe@ai.mit.edu
Date:          Tue, 28 Feb 1995 10:05:05 EDT
Subject:       Tuning
Priority: normal
X-Mailer: Pegasus Mail/Windows (v1.22)
Message-Id: <4981E932221@ariel.Princeton.EDU>

On sailing with a tight Snipe rig I would like to offer the following 
observation:

During the practice race at the Nationals a couple of years ago  I was
tuning with John Fry in moderate conditions and our straight line 
speed was very close with my rig was set up per the Fisher tuning 
guide.  I was sailing with a Split Jib, Fan Panel Main, and Susan 
and I are on the heavier side of crew weight.

As an experiment I dropped the shrouds one pin and tightened up the 
rig.  We were clearly slower.  No question at all.

So tightening the rig may be faster in heavy air, but I know it is 
slower in moderate air.  You can over do it and just be slower.


Darryl S. Waskow

Princeton University
Program in Theater & Dance

Phone: 609-258-3733
Fax:   609-258-2230
Hm Phone: 609-683-1198

From Plines@aol.com  Tue Feb 28 15:40:15 1995
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Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 15:40:15 -0500
From: Plines@aol.com
Message-Id: <950228154014_35050802@aol.com>
To: snipe@ai.mit.edu
Subject: Post-Collegiate Snipers

Hey Post-Collegiate Snipers:

Any of you guys out there interested in putting together a network of
post-collegiate Snipers that we could send out in a list to graduating
Seniors as contacts for "life after college sailing?"  The idea would be to
provide a service to graduating seniors by giving them names they can contact
if they are moving to a new city for their first job and want info on the
sailing circuit in that area.  We'd want to be able to mail the list by the
beginning of April, so we need to put together a list fast.

Any volunteers?

Lisa Foulke Pline
SCIRA Marketing Committee

From 8_RFEWKES@fair1.fairfield.edu  Tue Feb 28 17:13:54 1995
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Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 17:12:31 -0500 (EST)
From: THE ONE AND ONLY ROB <8_RFEWKES@fair1.fairfield.edu>
Subject: Advice...
To: snipe@ai.mit.edu
Message-Id: <01HNL9KI676A90P3E9@fair1.fairfield.edu>
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	I noticed that alot of people were collegiate sailors.  I am trying to
start a club here at Fairfield University in Conn.  I was wondering if anyone
can give me advice on the best way to do this.  Right now we have no money, no
boats, and no place to sail out of, but hey, you have to start somewhere.

	I was also wondering if any Snipers in this area of Conn. were looking
for crew this spring (availible until early May).

Thanx in advance,

From 8_RFEWKES@fair1.fairfield.edu  Tue Feb 28 17:18:09 1995
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Date: Tue, 28 Feb 1995 17:14:59 -0500 (EST)
From: THE ONE AND ONLY ROB <8_RFEWKES@fair1.fairfield.edu>
Subject: The rest of my letter (my system cut me in half)
To: snipe@ai.mit.edu
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Rob Fewkes
8_RFEWKES@Fair1.fairfield.edu
Snipe #17733

From WASKOW@ariel.princeton.edu  Wed Mar  1 18:28:00 1995
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From: "Darryl Waskow" <WASKOW@ariel.princeton.edu>
To: snipe@ai.mit.edu
Date:          Wed, 1 Mar 1995 16:23:10 EDT
Subject:       DI Schedule change
Priority: normal
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Message-Id: <4B66CA1489D@ariel.Princeton.EDU>

New England Championship,  Cottage Park MA.  August 12/13.

This regatta was originally scheduled for August 5/6 and has been 
changed to August 12/13.

Steve or Alex, please update the D1 schedule on the WWW.  Thanks
Darryl S. Waskow

Princeton University
Program in Theater & Dance

Phone: 609-258-3733
Fax:   609-258-2230
Hm Phone: 609-683-1198

From skeckler@ai.mit.edu  Fri Mar  3 06:00:05 1995
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From: skeckler@ai.mit.edu (Steve Keckler)
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Date: Fri, 3 Mar 95 06:00:04 EST
Message-Id: <9503031100.AA27542@kiwi>
To: snipe
Subject: Snipe Class on-line Monthly Posting

********************************************************************
*                                                                  *      
*                     Snipe Class On-Line                          *
*                                                                  *      
*                      (Monthly Posting)                           *      
*                                                                  *      
********************************************************************

This is a monthly information posting for the Snipe class on line.
Since you have received this message, you are on the Snipe class email
list.  This is a mailing list that was originally started by Alex
Pline and now resides on a mail server at MIT.  Mailing list
subscription and unsubscription requests, as well as questions
regarding the list can be sent to

snipe-request@ai.mit.edu

Mail that you want automatically forwarded to all people on the list
should be sent to

snipe@ai.mit.edu

Snipe Email is now available in digest form.  If you subscribe in this
form, you will receive one message per week containing all of the
messages sent to the list during the previous week.  If you wish to
change to or from digest form, send mail to snipe-request@ai.mit.edu

The mission for this list is to promote communication among Snipe
sailors from across the country and the world.  This includes regatta
announcements and results, equipment questions, tuning discussions,
Snipes wanted or for sale, etc.  Basically anything that would be
interesting to Snipe sailors.  The list currently includes over 75
people from 5 countries and 17 states.  This list is included at the
bottom of this message.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

In addition, the Snipe is now part of the World Wide Web (WWW). Alex
Pline and Steve Keckler are compiling and posting Snipe related
material on the Snipe WWW Home Page, including a general description
of the Snipe and SCIRA, boat specifications, the Sniper's e-mail list,
a gallery of digitized photos (to date, mostly from the Women's
Worlds), recent regatta results, articles written on the Snipe, and
fleet listings.  The page can be accessed using popular WWW browsers
such as Mosaic, Cello or Netscape by opening the URL:

        http://www.ai.mit.edu/snipe/snipe.html

Any suggestions or ideas from viewers are encouraged! Interesting
photos of Snipes (on or off the water) can be included by sending
them to Alex Pline, 1615 Lewis Drive, Lakewood, Ohio 44107, with a
brief explanation of the scene.

Hope to hear from you and see you on the race course!

Steve and Alex

Steve Keckler                    Concurrent VLSI Architecture Group
545 Technology Square		 MIT Artificial Intelligence Laboratory
Room 619A			 Tel:     (617) 253-8473
Cambridge, MA 02139 USA		 Fax:	  (617) 253-5060
				 E-mail:  skeckler@ai.mit.edu
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Alex Pline
Space Experiments Division   "Moderation in Moderation"
NASA Lewis Research Center
                             PHONE:
SNAIL MAIL:                   (216) 433-6614
 NASA Lewis Research Center
 Mail Stop 500-102           INTERNET:
 21000 Brookpark Rd.          mail: apline@en.com
 Cleveland, OH 44135          WWW:  http://zeta.lerc.nasa.gov/stdce/pline.htm


<TITLE>Snipe Email Mailing List Information</TITLE>

<H1>Snipe Mailing List Information</H1>

<I>Last updated January 21, 1995 </I>

<p>

<hr>

The Snipe mailing list is used by Snipe sailors to discuss via email
boat tuning techniques, post regatta schedules and results, etc.  An
archive of list traffic may be provided in the future.

<p>

If you wish to be added to the Snipe email list send email to <i>
snipe-request@ai.mit.edu</i>.  Please include any Snipe fleet
affiliation (fleet number, sailing club, city, Snipe class
district, etc.) if you have any.

<p>

Snipe Email is now available in digest form.  If you subscribe in this
form, you will receive one message per week containing all of the
messages sent to the list during the previous week.  Please indicate
which form you prefer (digest or regular) in your subscription
message.

<p>

Mail sent to <i>snipe@ai.mit.edu</i> will be forwarded to the list.

<p>

Current list:

<p>

<pre width="80">
Name			Fleet	Internet address                        Club City State     District

Antonio Bari                    svaldi@irst.it                               Italy
Todd Barrett		495	tkb@hobbes.ucsd.edu 			MBYC Mission Bay, CA	6
Don Bedford		495	bedford@kegs.saic.com			MBYC Mission Bay, CA	6
Gianmaria Bertanzon     415     gm@lii.unitn.it                         CUS Trento, Trento, Italy 
Jerelyn Biehl                   TeamBiehl@aol.com
+Wade Blomgren		495	wade@hobbes.ucsd.edu			MBYC Mission Bay, CA	6
John Brady		532	jbrady@fedeast.east.sun.com  		SSA  Annapolis, MD  	1
Jeff Burney                     jburney@argos.nodc.noaa.gov
Steve Burns             052     burns@musc.edu                          James Island YC Charleston SC  4
Charlie	Bustamante 	007	charlieb@vnet.ibm.com			CGSC Miami, FL		4
John Callahan           012     cmjh@chevron.com                        St. Francis YC, San Francisco, CA 7
Allan Carscaddon                carscaddon@delphi.com                        Washington DC      1
Vince Casalaina         012     72254.1777@compuserve.com               Richmond YC, Berkeley, CA 7
Jeff Case                       jcc@sirius.larc.nasa.gov                     Hampton, VA
**Doug Clark		532	ddclark@jacksonville.nadn.navy.mil 	SSA Annapolis, MD 	1
Mike Coffman            052     coffman@musc.edu                        James Island YC Charleston SC  4
Brad Cote               495     bcote@cts.com                           MBYC Mission Bay, CA	6
Edwin Cowen                     eac@leland.stanford.edu
Timm Crowder                    CROWDER_TIMM@src.org
John Danneberger        532     kdja50a@prodigy.com 	                SSA Annapolis, MD 	1
Palmer Davis                    palmer@ansoft.com
Juan de la Puente		jpuente@gic.tat.upm.es			Santiago de la Ribera	Spain
Russel DeLombard                agrath@nwlink.com                            Seattle, WA
Gonzo Diaz              007     diazgonzal@aol.com                      CGSC Miami, FL		4
Jno Disch               747	jno@umich.edu              		EWYC Cleveland,	OH	3
Marc Duvoisin			duvoisim@ben.ksc.nasa.gov          	     FL			4
Guy Eldridge                    geldridg@ibl.bm                         Spanish Point Boat Club  Bermuda
+Richard Evnen		567	70253.3440@compuserve.com 		     Lincoln, NE	2
Grace Fang              495     grace@gso.saic.com                      MBYC Mission Bay, CA	6
Bob Fehrenbach                  bfehrenb@execpc.com                          Wauwatosa, WI
+Robert Finicle          747     74352.540@compuserve.com                CYC     Cleveland, OH   3
Angela Finicle          747     abf4@po.cwru.edu                        CYC     Cleveland, OH   3
Robert Fewkes           103     8_rfewkes@fair1.fairfield.edu           Newport Y.C. NY         5
Lisa Foulke		532	plines@aol.com  			SSA Annapolis, MD	1
Hal Gilreath		781	gt0499a@prism.gatech.edu 		LLSC Atlanta, GA	4
Lee Griffith                    Griff27054@aol.com
Lisa Griffith		495	griffith@scripps.edu 			MBYC Mission Bay, CA	6
Bill Hall	 	 77	whall@draper.com			WBC Winchester, MA	1
Bob Harmon		532	rharmon@clark.net			SSA Annapolis, MD	1
*Marianne Harmon		532	Marianne.Harmon@arch2.nara.gov		SSA Annapolis, MD	1
Rick Harris		532	rharris@windvane.umd.edu 		SSA Annapolis, MD	1
Charles Heimler         012     cheimler@scuacc.scu.edu                 St. Francis YC, San Francisco, CA 7
Joe Heinzle             567	Heinzle@aol.com         		    Lincoln, NE		2
Steve Keckler		 77     skeckler@ai.mit.edu     		WBC Winchester, MA	1
Lloyd Ketchum		145	Lloyd.H.Ketchum.1@nd.edu 		Eagle Lake YC, MI	3
Ramsay Key                      jkey@emerald.tufts.edu                       Tufts Sailing Team
Kay (Voss) Kilpatrick   007	kilpatric@rcf.rsmas.miami.edu		CGSC Miami, FL		4
Lee King                052     kingl@ccit1.mhs.musc.edu                     Charleston SC  4
Fernando Krahe                  krahe@penta.ufrgs.br                         Porto Alegre, Brazil
Steve Lang              801     lang@bayflash.stpt.usf.edu                   St. Petersburg, FL 4
Craig Leweck		495	0005872509@mcimail.com			MBYC Mission Bay, CA	6
Beth Lurie              006     bethh@mit.edu                           Larchmont YC, Larchmont, NY 1
Thomas Manning          580     tmanning@grits.valdosta.peachnet.edu    Valdosta YC, Valdosta, GA 4
Michael Moor                    Maxmoore@ccnet.com
Geir Bjarne Meyre       675     myr@troll.vestnett.no                        Bergen, Norway
Mike Neilson                    geof005@uabdpo.dpo.uab.edu
Carol Newman                    Cansail@aol.com
Riku Nordgren                   rikun@katto.kaapeli.fi                  Nylendska Jaktklubben Helsinki, Finland
Jonathan Posner                 jposner@maemaster.eng.uci.edu                Irvine, CA
+John MacRae 	 	 77	macrae@harvarda.harvard.edu		WBC Winchester, MA	1
Terry McSweeney		747	apline@en.com			EWYC Cleveland,	OH	3
Maureen/Dick Mitchell 	442 	haysmitchell@center.colgate.edu 	Cuba Lake YC, Cuba NY	5
Mike Neilson		828	geof005@uabdpo.dpo.uab.edu 		B'ham SC Birmingham, AL	4
Pauline	Neilson		828	shrp022@uabdpo.dpo.uab.edu 		B'ham SC Birmingham, AL	4
Reinhard Noack          094     reinhard@isis.ps.uci.edu                Bahia Corinthian YC Newport Beach, CA 6
Mike Otto		190	mjo@scd.etn.com				Gull Lake YC, MI	3
Ted Packard                     tedp@xionix.com
Rodrigo	Pascual			rpascual@galileo.dim.udec.cl		     Chile	
Alex Pline		747	apline@en.com			EWYC Cleveland, OH	3
Jim Revkin                      revco@revco.med.yale.edu
Mark Reynolds			0005872509@mcimail.com			    CA			6
Ed Roseboom		495	roseboom@rahul.net 			MBYC Mission Bay, CA	6
Art Rousmaniere          77     71623.234@compuserve.com     		WBC Winchester, MA	1
Scott Sammons			sammons@bimcore.emory.edu		    GA			4
Christina Scheidt               Scheidt3@aol.com
Ken Shepard		567	kshepard@unlinfo.unl.edu		    Lincoln, NE		2
Vince Sidwell                   sidwell@vuse.vanderbilt.edu                 Vanderbilt Sailing Club, Nashville, TN
Albert Silverman                silvermn@tiac.net                           Lexington, MA
D. Smith                        dsmith@brobeck.com
Jim Smith                       JPS127@psuvm.psu.edu                        State College, PA    
Bill Spens                      wyspensi@mailhost.ecn.uoknor.edu            U of OK Sailing Club, Norman, OK
Mark Spicknall          520     spicknal@umich.edu                      Barton BC Ann Arbor, MI 3
John Tagliamonte         77     tagliamj@cleo.bc.edu                    WBC Winchester, MA	1
Scott Tarpley            77     Scott_Tarpley@qmbase.mitre.org          WBC Winchester, MA	1
Sampo Valjus            741     sampov@asava.pp.fi                      HSK Helsinki, Finland                      
Ken Voss		007	kvoss@umiami.miami.edu			CGSC Miami, FL		4
Robb M. Walker          495     robbmw@cts.com                          MBYC Mission Bay, CA	6
Darryl Waskow		256	waskow@ariel.princeton.edu		    Pine Beach, NJ	1
+David Winter		567	DOR26004@vmhost.cdp.state.ne.us	            Lincoln, NE	2
+Rick Wood		110	74353.2131@compuserve.com 		Portage Lakes Akron, OH 3
Judy Yamaguchi                  yamaguch@mendel.berkeley.edu 

------------

*Email works, but not currently on the snipe distribution list.
**Email address not currently operating.
+Receiving email in digest form.

</pre>

<p>

<hr>
<a href=snipe.html> Return to Snipe home page </a>
<hr>


<address> <a href="http://zeta.lerc.nasa.gov/stdce/pline.htm"> Alex Pline </a> (apline@en.com) </address>
<address> <a href="http://www.ai.mit.edu/people/skeckler/skeckler.html"> Steve Keckler </a> (skeckler@ai.mit.edu) </address>



